Keep moving ! What surf brought into my life.

 

“Surf teaches us how to confront life.” Said Gerry Lopez, an American surfer from the 70’s extremely known and respected in the field.

Surf is an extraordinary metaphoric expression of life. Waves are wonderful, they are like illusions, coming and going, appearing and disappearing with a mesmerize aura.

They are like archaic poetry.

 

The most cherished place on earth for me is where sand and sea meet; this encounter is impenetrable. I hardly find the word to describe how fascinating I find this place.

 

Surf, Sport, Beach, Lifestyle

 

The waves come to die on the beach and doing so they offer a vibrant sound like no other, the most pacifying and reassuring sound I know.

I always used to say that water is definitely my element, it was no surprise I felt in love with surfing as soon I started to practice it in Tel Aviv 4 years ago. The feeling I discovered while riding a wave is simply the best ever. It’s pure freedom and togetherness with nature as no equal.

It’s a moment of intimacy with yourself and the hypnotizing rhythm of earth.

 

When you surf, you have to “keep moving”, precisely like you have to keep moving in life. In the water, if you want to catch waves, there’s no way you’re going to sit there on your board letting yourself to be taken by the flow. Even though it happens to be very nice sometimes… If you want to catch waves, you have to keep moving, you have to place yourself at the right place, at the right time, and stare at the horizon, being able to recognize which wave will be worth it to swim for. It’s pretty much like living, isn’t it ?

 

“Waves are illusions.

They come from nowhere, take a

material appearance and, immediately,

they break down and disappear.

To chase those floating mirages is a waste of time.

That’s why I chose to make it my life.”

Miki Dora

 

Advised lecture : Petite philosophie du Surf written by Fréderic Schiffter

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Simulacrum, or the power of imaginary.

 

Plural simulacra from Latin: simulacrum, which means “likeness, similarity”.

The word was first coined during the late 16th century in the English language. A simulacrum is a representation or imitation of a person or a thing. It defines an appearance that doesn’t refer to any underlying reality. This is the sense of the Greek word eidolon, which gave idol in Latin and is translated by simulacrum. In opposition, the term icon is translated by copy; The copy always sends back to the imitation of reality, without concealing it. Eidolon opposes to Eidos or idea, translated by form or shape.

In his books Le Platonisme (P.U.F., 1985), Vincent Descombes explains:

“Nor copy, nor model, simulacra is the refutation to distinguish the original from its imitation.”

 

Painting, Art, History of Art, Fable

 

And a bit before Descombes, in La Logique du Sens (Éditions de Minuit, 1969), Gilles Deleuze affirms: “There’s in the simulacra a “go-mad”, a borderless becoming, a subversive becoming, skilled in avoiding the equal, the limit, the Similar.”

Simulacrum are effects of our imaginary that sees what doesn’t exist and makes us believe it totally does. If we can’t deny the existence of reality, we can’t deny neither the power of our imaginary in reinterpreting and transforming this so-called reality.

Imitation, falsification and, illusion… Here are the ideas floating around the notions of simulacrum. As said before, the border between what’s real and what our imaginary lets us believe is truly blurred.

“Nobody can know if the world is fantasy or reality, and neither if there’s a difference between dreaming and living.” Jorge Luis Borges

 

This is what I believe. Everything is made of “Simulacres”. The way we exist, how we present ourselves, how we meet the Others, encounters, work, love… All are masks we create, facing other masks, infinitely dizzying…

Rationality can be a terrible trap, but without it we would fall deep down into the pit of anxiety and despair, incomprehension.

Still, I want to see the world always more and more revealed, diving into imaginary and deconstructed our Simulacres, as far as I adore them…

“Future is female”

Future is female… Present is female, Past is female… The Universe is female, as much as the other half is male as well… But this last part doesn’t need to be developed too much here (yet!). I don’t think I am the only person who got surprised, or chocked according to your level of political/personal engagement in woman positions in society, by this latest trend appearing on catwalks and already got down on Topshop T-shirts.

If some woman are staying indifferent to this current trend of “Feminism”, please, WAKE UP !!!

 

And remember what your ancestors suffered for, and mainly what you are still suffering for (without even being conscious of it apparently).

We, women of the world, have been truly empowered compared to a century ago, and we, human beings, got conscious of women’s conditions, all over the world. This is now the responsibility of each of us to change what’s need to be changed… Each woman can find the strength inside to shape her path.

Feminism, Dior, Fashion, Statement

Reading this interview of Maria Grazie Chiuri published on the Guardian. I got quite inspired to reflect around her own vision of what means feminism. This is an extract from the interview:

“I am not interested in the old stereotypes, of what a feminist looks like or doesn’t look like. I don’t think there is one way to be a feminist.”

 

And I must say I really agree on this. Nevertheless, I have to add something. In my point of view, the term of “feminism” doesn’t exist anymore. We all understood and got conscious that we are living in patriarchal societies, in which the white/heterosexual/able man is ruling.

It’s not a matter of being feminist anymore, because we should all already have integrated those notions inside our lives and it’s the duty of each of us to apply them.

 

Change is slow, especially when we talk about patterns rooted into our sociology for millenniums.

And talking about evolution, I’m really curious to see what will be the next move of Maria Grazia Chiuri, the eventually first woman as creative director of the historical French House…

We are moving forward, slowly but surely !

 

The various mutations of the term grotesque

 

From the Italian term “grottesca”, which means cave fresco, definition and use of the term grotesque will mute through centuries. In 1532, it defines a “capricious ornaments”, and during the XVIe century it designates a caricatured or fantastic figure. Until those times, the expression is mainly used in the field of painting.

During the year 1636, in his book L’Illusion Comique, the French writer Corneille updates the signification of the word linking it to an idea of comical; “(…) causing laughing by its extravagance”. During the XVIIIe century, the Dictionary of French Academy defines it again under its pictorial aspect, explaining that a grotesque representation has one natural part and the other one chimerical.

The meaning continues to evolve through the decades and starts to figuratively nominate something or someone ridiculous, bizarre or extravagant. Nowadays, the dominant idea around grotesque is the one of extravagance; someone or something that lends to laugh by its incredible and eccentric characteristic, and also its bad taste.

There is embarrassment around the notion of grotesque facing the common desire to define it precisely without succeeding to do so.

It is by essence a hybrid word, its strength is to be constantly renewed, evolving and changing.

 

Hybridization disturbs, because it is creating something new, and very often changes and novelties are chocking.

 

Fashion, Collection, Fashion Show, Presentation

 

This is exactly what Hussein Chalayan did with the famous and so-called burqa collection. It’s a political statement about women’s rights and equality. Conceptually speaking, it is about breaking rules and conductively embracing cultural chaos, it that case we are talking about a very precise cultural background in some countries of the world.

 

 

We can put in comparison this statement about equality with the main characteristic of the carnival phenomenon. During this festivity everybody is put in the same level and everything is basically possible. Mikhaïl Bakhtine defines the term carnavalesque as a temporary inversion of hierarchies and values. He develops the idea of carnival as a strong expression of popular culture in its subversive dimension.

Here, Hussein Chalayan is unveiling the body of women to show orifices. He is revealing the social body, in which the natural should be eliminated, putting in evidence orifices, which are the opening self to the world, the connection between the internal and the external environment. The designer is hiding the face and showing the down part of the body; we recognize characteristics proper to the grotesque, the one of every possibility, inversions, and up side down.

Painting, Carnaval,

 

The grotesque is disturbing, because it’s cultivating contradictions and paradoxes.

 

In that sense it is able to break down the prejudiced and move walls of preconceived. It is interesting to have a different look on this collection considering this way of reaching a form a freedom of the body.

The Italian artist Francesco Albano also worked on the concept of grotesque with his sculpture of melting body. On this piece of work, the first thing we see is the orifice, our natural and animal part. We can interpret this shape as an animal in cage trying to escape, and as a metaphor of someone willing to break out from ones social body.

 

Art, Sculpture, Installation

 

This white and blank space made of neutrality reminds a dream, a fantasy in which everything is possible and where you can build your own world. A world that allows to invent a new reality made of paradoxes and hybridizations. A grotesque universe defined by Bakhtine as the unfinished metamorphose of death and birth, growth and becoming, always on the border between reality and imaginary.

Grotesque is forcing Art to integrate its own contradictions. It’s an anti-aesthetic.

Au fil du temps, thoughs on knitwear.

 

If you’d ask me to define knitwear in one word, I would say without hesitating: Freedom. Freedom to create, freedom to evolve and change.

I discovered the world of knitwear 5 years ago, in Paris. I was just getting into my year off, after high school. It was a time when I truly felt I needed to occupied my hand.

I needed to give shape to what I had in mind, even though I didn’t even know what I had in mind at this period…

 

Knit, Wool, Yarn, Lifestyle

 

Really, I was already diving into a strong fashion atmosphere, staying into a 15 m2 one room studio in Neuilly-sur-Seine with my boyfriend at this time. Fabrics, materials, drawings, patterns…. They were all part of my everyday life. I had already integrated this entire world in my mind at a point that I couldn’t understand yet.

One day, I was walking around in the neighborhood Marché Saint Pierre in Montmartre, strolling through old and dusty fabrics, along with shiny and expensive ones. The paradise of textile lover, a place that really makes you feel like going to learn how to sew and make all your garments by yourself.

As I walked out from a shop, at a distance, I noticed a small shop selling wool and yarns; “Chatmaille”. Very curious, I decided to enter there and have a look. Soon enough, it was obvious for me that starting to knit would be the perfect thing to do.

 

Knitwear, wool, Needles, Circular needles

 

I needed something creative, here you go. You have a yarn, and with it you can create any garment you’d like, you are the one who chose how it will feel, the materials, the colour.

You conduct the yarn absolutely as you want and it that way you can create your own fabric.

 

Without speaking about the act of knitting in itself yet, but simply about seeing a stunning shell full of wool balls, gracefully organized by colour and style, this is already pure beauty, because I can see there the output of a long and fantastic process of spinning and dying…

Sheeps, Wool, Nature, Artisan

 Works of traditions and artisans.

 

I felt in love with materials, colours, and the infinite possibility of creation and versatility of this beautiful and chromatic world.