“Surf teaches us how to confront life.” Said Gerry Lopez, an American surfer from the 70’s extremely known and respected in the field.
Surf is an extraordinary metaphoric expression of life. Waves are wonderful, they are like illusions, coming and going, appearing and disappearing with a mesmerize aura.
They are like archaic poetry.
The most cherished place on earth for me is where sand and sea meet; this encounter is impenetrable. I hardly find the word to describe how fascinating I find this place.
The waves come to die on the beach and doing so they offer a vibrant sound like no other, the most pacifying and reassuring sound I know.
I always used to say that water is definitely my element, it was no surprise I felt in love with surfing as soon I started to practice it in Tel Aviv 4 years ago. The feeling I discovered while riding a wave is simply the best ever. It’s pure freedom and togetherness with nature as no equal.
It’s a moment of intimacy with yourself and the hypnotizing rhythm of earth.
When you surf, you have to “keep moving”, precisely like you have to keep moving in life. In the water, if you want to catch waves, there’s no way you’re going to sit there on your board letting yourself to be taken by the flow. Even though it happens to be very nice sometimes… If you want to catch waves, you have to keep moving, you have to place yourself at the right place, at the right time, and stare at the horizon, being able to recognize which wave will be worth it to swim for. It’s pretty much like living, isn’t it ?
“Waves are illusions.
They come from nowhere, take a
material appearance and, immediately,
they break down and disappear.
To chase those floating mirages is a waste of time.
That’s why I chose to make it my life.”
Advised lecture : Petite philosophie du Surf written by Fréderic Schiffter